Changunarayan Temple
The hilltop temple of Changu Narayan, located 4 kilometers north of Bhaktapur, is the oldest Vishnu shrine in Kathmanarnations of Vishnu and different multi-armed Tantric goddesses. Changu Narayan’s true gems, however, are the Lichhavai period (4th to 9th centuries) stone, wood, and metal carvings in the courtyard surrounding the main templedu Valley. Founded as early as 325 AD, it is one of Nepal’s most beautiful and historically important structures. Reconstructed in 1702 following its destruction by fire, the two-storey temple has many intricate carvings of the ten inc.
While visiting this World Heritage Site, do remember that you are looking at one of the finest examples of a pagoda style temple that is so prevalent in and around the Kathmandu valley. It would be good to know that there are certain specific stipulations that have to be strictly adhered to when building such a temple. For instance, the ground plan of every Hindu temple must conform to a single graph. This has to be in sync with the Vastu Purush Mandala, an architectural yantra.changu 2 This word is derived from the Sanskrit word, ‘Yam’, meaning, to sustain, hold or support the inherent energy inherent, object or concept in a specific element and consists of ‘a geometrical diagram with abstract symbols’. In the Kathmandu valley, in addition, temples usually have intricate woodcarvings, metal-sheeted roofs, detailed struts (tundals), a pinnacle (gajura), low doors, a pataka (a metal banner descending from the roof) and a torana, which is placed over doorways.
Toranas are made of either wood or wood plated with metals. Most of them are elaborately carved with, on both sides of, a chhapu (a fierce beast biting a snake), a gaye (a goddess on a makara (sea monster)), Jamuna (a goddess atop a kachuwa (tortoise)) and an apsara (an angel holding garlands). The torana over the main doorway of Changu Narayan Temple is especially impressive, depicting as it does, a Garuda (man/bird carrier of Vishnu) with a naga (serpent) at each side of the mouth over the above-mentioned figures. Certainly, this is one aspect of Changu Narayan Temple that you must an eye out for when visiting this World Heritage Site.
The Legend of Changu Narayan
In ancient times, a Gwala, or cow herder, had brought a cow from a Brahmin named Sudarshan. The cow was known for producing large quantities of milk. The Gwala used to take the cow to Changu for grazing. At that time Changu was a forest of Champak trees. While grazing, the cow always went to the shade of a particular tree. In the evening, when the Gwala took the cow home and started milking her, he got only a very small amount of milk. This continued several days. He grew very sad, so he called on the Brahmin saying the cow was not giving enough milk. After observing this with his own eyes, Sudarshan agreed with the Gwala they should observe the cow's daytime activity while she was grazing in the forest. Brahmin and Gwala both hid behind the trees and watched the cow. She went into the shade of one particular champak tree. To their surprise, a small black boy came out of the tree and started drinking the cow milk. The two men were furious because they thought the boy must be the devil and tree must be its home. So the Brahmin cut down the champak tree. When he was cutting it down, fresh human blood came out of the tree. Both Brahmin and Gwala got worried, believing they had committed a great crime and began to cry. Lord Vishnu emerged from the tree and told the Brahmin and cowherd it was not their fault. Vishnu told the story of how he had committed a heinous crime by unwittingly killing Sudarshan’s father while hunting in the forest. After that, cursed for the crime, he wandered the earth on his mouth, as ‘Garuda’ eventually descending on the hill at Changu. There he lived in anonymity, surviving on milk stolen from a cow. When Brahmin cut down the tree, Vishnu was beheaded, which freed Lord Vishnu from his sins. After hearing these words from Vishnu, Brahmin and Gwala resolved to worship the place and established a small temple in the name of Lord Vishnu. Ever since the site has been sacred. Even today, we find Sudarshan's descendant as a priest of the temple and the Gwala's descendants as ghutiyars (conservators). There's another legend too. About 400 years ago, a mighty warrior named pranjal lived. He still lives today. He was the strongest in the entire country. Another warrior known all over Nepal named Changu challenged Pranjal. Changu defeated him and won the hearts of Nepalis, so as a tribute to him this temple was constructedChangu Museum:
Near the Changu Narayan Temple is a modest looking brick building with carved windows and a mahogany door over which the words “Changu Museum” is inscribed with pasted coins. It might be a modest museum, but it has quite an eclectic collection of artifacts. You will come across things like old cow gallstones, ancient leather coins, and so on here. The Changu Museum is now more than decade-old and is perhaps the one and only private museum in Nepal. Just past the entrance are a series of watercolors portraying the legend of Changu Narayan’s origin. The story goes like this: a cowherd once owned a cow prized for its copious production of milk and which he had bought from a Brahmin. It so happened that the cow’s milk was stolen daily by a child living in a tree. On discovering this, they (the Brahmin and the cowherd) cut down the tree believing that an evil spirit dwelled there. But, inside the tree, a beheaded Lord Vishnu (also known as Narayan) was found. The child was an incarnation of his. The cowherd and the Brahmin begged pardon of the god. However, He told them that in His previous life, he had been responsible for the Brahmin’s father’s death and was now paying for His sin. A Changu Narayan stone idol was erected then and there.
On the museum’s three floors, the displayed artifacts are labeled in both English and Nepali. You will see a good collection of traditional musical instruments, as well as many weapons including a 400-year-old shield (dhal) made of tough rhinoceros hide. Especially intriguing are three bowls of preserved rice grains – one bowl has grains that are 140-year-old, another has grains as old as 175 years and one has 225-year-old grains. Equally intriguing is a fist-sized gallstone of a cow and a musk deer’s navel. You will also see a nice array of Nepali coins and bank notes that includes a very old leather coin and a 5th century copper coin.
Legendary places in the temple:
Garuda Idol: Inside the Changunarayan temple is a esteemed figure of Garuda. The statue is offered sweets by the devotees every year on Nag Panchami. This is done in remembrance of the epic struggle with the great snake Taksaka. The drops of moisture, believed to be effective against diseases such as leprosy and ulcers, are collected by the priests.
King Bhupendra Malla Statues: Statues of King Bhupatindra Malla of Kathmandu and his mother can also be seen in a shrine. Bloody fighting characterised their politics during the 17th century but both were generous when it came to revering the gods.
Vishnu Sculpture: To the north of the temple is a sculpture of Lord Vishnu seated on Garuda (Garudasana Vishnu). This image appears on the Nepalese 10 rupee note. Vishnu sculpture dates back to 9th century.Important Vishnu Sculptures:
Vishwaroop: Vishwaroop sculpture, dating back to 8th century A.D., presents Lord Vishnu in his universal form.
Vishnu Vikrant: The stone idol, harking back to the 8th century A.D, is of the most powerful form of Lord Vishnu. It is related to the Hindu legend of Vaman, an incarnation of Vishnu, who measured space with feet.
Vishnu Riding Garuda: This figure of Vishnu mounting Garuda, the mythical bird, dates back to the 10th century A.D.
Narsimhha Vishnu : This form of Lord Vishnu, the Narsimha, is in half human and half lion form.
After2015 Earthquake
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